Exploring Fukuoka: Japan's Underrated City

What cities first come to your mind when you hear Japan? Perhaps Tokyo tops the list, followed by Osaka, Kyoto, and Sapporo. Okay, maybe let’s add Nagoya because of Legoland. But Fukuoka was never under the radar for most travelers, and they’re missing a lot. This laidback city on the island of Kyushu seems unassuming, but it has a lot to offer. Today, I am here for five days to explore what Fukuoka has to offer and to discover its charm and uniqueness.

Fukuoka is only three hours away from Manila. We left gloomy Manila and it was a different world upon initial descent. As our plane banked to the right over Hakata Bay, the sun was low at the western horizon, casting a magnificent golden glow. The crests of the waves below look like pearls scattered at the sea, glittering and shining like stars as if signaling my arrival. My eyes were glued even after touchdown, more so the sun even showed its remaining light and might until the velvet carpet of night slowly crept in as I exited the terminal building.

Located at Kyushu Island, on Hakata Bay’s shores, Fukuoka is the sixth largest city in Japan. It is home to over a million inhabitants and has a laid-back lifestyle. Unlike other big cities like Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka, where everything’s fast-paced and difficult to keep up with, Fukuoka is the opposite. No one is in a hurry, and the main thoroughfares are quiet after 10 PM.

I stayed at EN Hotel in Hakata, and check-in was a breeze. After settling my stuff, I went around the neighborhood and checked out the Yatais. Yatai, which translates to ‘shop stand,’ is quintessentially Fukuokan. These food stalls are usually set up in the early evening and sell Yakitori (skewered chicken) and their famous Hakata Ramen, also known as Tonkatsu Ramen. I am glad that my hotel is just close to the Hakata River. Every night, I enjoy the feast of their delicious Tonkatsu Ramen, gyoza, and assorted skewered meat. To cap off the night, an ice-cold Asahi beer will always be the perfect choice to quench my thirst and beat Japan’s summer heat.

Like any other Japanese city, Fukuoka has many temples that are free to visit. The Kushida Shrine is one of the most important Shinto Shrines in the city. If you want to see a giant wooden Buddha, head to Tochoji Temple. The Hakata Machiya Folk Museum made me learn more about the local history and traditional crafts in this preserved Meiji-era townhouse.

For those who didn’t know, I am never a fan of hot and humid weather. It’s ironic because I was born and raised in a country where it is perpetually hot and humid. But why am I here in Japan when it currently feels like we’re inside an oven? Well, there are things that I can’t explain (and I never owed anyone an explanation, but I digress), but Japan once again proved that it’s an all-year-round destination.

I went to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, one of the city’s famous shrines dedicated to the deity of learning. Well, learning didn’t stop there as I also visited Kyushu National Museum. The island of Kyushu shares a part of its history and culture with Korea. Back in the early days, trade posts were established between Fukuoka and Busan, generating income through maritime trade.

I finally got to visit the reclining Buddha of Nanzoin Temple in Fukuoka. Unlike other temples, visitors are encouraged to dress appropriately. If you’re wearing shorts and have tattoos like me, you have to cover your exposed tattoo and have a cloth rolled around you, just like visiting temples in Bali.

Fukuoka Prefecture is slightly off the tourist track, yet it has so many hidden treasures, and Nanzoin Temple is one of the biggest. It is said to have the world’s biggest bronze statue—well, the world’s largest bronze reclining Buddha statue. At 41 m long and 11 m high, its size is similar to the famous Buddhas at Kamakura and Nara.

Nanzoin Temple is accessible from Hakata Station, and the main entrance is only 200 meters from Kidonanzoin-Mae Station.

   I love parks. I love sitting under the shade of trees, listening to the rustling of the leaves, the cicadas singing, the birds chirping, and the occasional heavy footsteps of the joggers. It felt like an orchestra to me, and it was so relaxing. The solitude allows me to reflect on what transpired in my life for the past 34 years, well, to be fair, I don’t remember being pulled out by the doctor as my mom underwent an emergency lower caesarian section delivery. Okay, I digress. But on a serious note, I am very introspective. A lot happens inside my mind when I’m alone and quiet. Whether it’s about fueling my creativity or planning my next trip, being alone is essential.

On my 34th birthday, I freed up my day and strolled around Tenjin Underground Mall, and surprise, I only bought Japanese goodies. I didn’t have extra luggage and wasn’t planning to buy another one, so I had to be wise. I’m not the world’s best packer, but spoiler alert, I managed to squeeze everything.

Later that day, I decided to spend my last day here at Fukuoka’s highest point–Fukuoka Tower. The ticket to the observatory deck was only JPY800. It’s a bit cheap, but once you’re on top at 123 meters above sea level, you’ll have sweeping views of the entire Fukuoka. Honestly, there’s nothing much to do there. So, instead of waiting for the sunset from above, I took the elevator back to the ground and visited Momochihama Beach.

I’m glad I did because the sunset from the beach was spectacular. The tide was calm, people were doing their things, and I patiently waited for the sunset. At that point, I wished I was with someone else as this moment is best shared with your significant one. But that’s another story. The sky exploded in the hues of orange, red, and finally indigo as night slowly writhed its way to the sky, taking over daylight.

While walking back to the bus stop, I overheard a family of three singing Happy Birthday to their young daughter. It might be a coincidence, but I think it’s a gentle reminder from the universe that life is still beautiful, and a significant milestone of your life can be celebrated in a sea of strangers.

The city grew as we neared Hakata Ward. As the city came alive with lights that echoed heaven’s stars, I listened to Djo’s End of Beginning, and the lyrics hit hard; it felt cathartic.

“Another version of me, I was in it. I wave goodbye to the end of beginning.”

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