I woke at half past eight to a Rome that had decided, against all meteorological pessimism, to be radiant. The forecast had threatened days of rain: gray and somber skies, sodden stones, and a city in mourning. But instead, there was a sharp blue firmament and an eight-degree chill that made the light feel earned. From my window, the sun struck the terracotta roofs and ochre walls with a kind of absolution. Breakfast downstairs was as perfunctory as the reviews had warned: a limp croissant, indifferent coffee, hospitality by obligation. Still, it was free, and I have never trusted a man who travels for breakfast.







