I first met Montréal in the winter of 2019, when the city seemed intent on keeping its pleasures to itself. The streets were grey, snow had gathered along the sidewalks, and people moved with the brisk determination of those who had somewhere warm to be. I remember the cold, the old buildings disappearing beneath a low sky, and the feeling of being a stranger passing through.
Returning in summer was another proposition altogether. The city had opened its windows. Along Saint-Laurent Boulevard, restaurant terraces spilled onto the pavement, glasses clinked beneath striped awnings, and the smell of grilled meat drifted from open kitchen doors. On Rue Saint-Denis, people lingered over coffee as though the afternoon had nowhere else to go. In the Plateau, iron staircases curled up the fronts of narrow houses, balconies overflowed with plants, and the streets were shaded by trees that seemed to have been there long before I arrived. I walked through it all, sometimes with a destination, often without one. It struck me that seven years ago, I had been so occupied with seeing a place that I might not have given myself enough time to simply experience it.








